Early Roger Dubuis Golden Square 18K Rose Gold, 40mm, Diamond Bezel, GILT Dial.

You can own an incredibly rare, historically significant artifact from the golden era of independent haute horlogerie—crafted during the lifetime of Mr. Roger Dubuis himself.

Offered here is an 18K rose gold Roger Dubuis Golden Square watch. The reference number G 40 57 5 and BTE 210315 are both engraved inside the case back. The slightly curved case measures 40 mm across. The bezel of this case is set with 80 brilliant cut diamonds and there are an additional 12 diamonds set in the lugs. The total diamond weight in the case is estimated at approx. 0.60 carats. The diamonds are high quality, factory set. VS or better clarity and G or better color. The dial is to die for!!! It is a gilt galvanic dial where all the Roman numerals are actually highly reflective metal.

These dials require much more work than regular painted dials.

The top sapphire crystal is curved and does not protrude from the bezel. 

The exhibition back allows to view the cal. 57 25 jewels automatic movement.

This is officially certified chronometer movement.

Certification by French Bulletin D’Observatoire.

  The watch comes with a Roger Dubuis white hand sawn leather strap and an 18K rose gold, diamonds set buckle. 

The watch will fit up to a 7 inch wrist as pictured.

It is possible to add a couple more holes in the band or you can purchase another one to fit you.

This watch as other Roger Dubuis creations was issued in a limited edition of 28 examples and this one being number 7/28. 

As pictured here the watch weighs 118.1 grams.

 Lots of gold here!!

When first issued around 2002 this model carried a retail price of over $30,000. 

This was when the price of gold was 1/10th of what it is today! 

Priced here at $18,000.

The Movement: It is powered by the “”Caliber RD57, an in-house automatic winding movement featuring 25 jewels. It is certified with the prestigious “”Geneva Seal (“”Poinçon de Genève) and officially chronometer-tested.

On an early, master-era Roger Dubuis watch like the Golden Square, “”“BTE” stands for “”Bulletin d’Observatoire (Observatory Bulletin), and the numbers following it represent the watch’s “”official chronometer certificate serial number.

Before Roger Dubuis was acquired by the Richemont Group, the founder, Mr. Roger Dubuis himself, had a fierce dedication to old-world watchmaking standards. Every single watch he produced had to pass two strict tests.

The “”Geneva Seal (“”Poinçon de Genève) for finishing and decorative mastery.

A rigorous independent accuracy test performed by the “”Besançon Observatory in France.

When a movement passed the observatory’s multi-week accuracy trials, it was issued a “”Bulletin d’Observatoire (Certificate of Observatory Performance). Roger Dubuis proudly engraved “”BTE directly onto the gold casebacks of these limited series to signify that the movement inside was a certified elite chronometer.

The Meaning of “210315” This is the “”unique production registry number for that specific movement’s accuracy certificate.                Having “”BTE 210315 permanently stamped on the back is one of the strongest proofs that your watch is an                                             authentic, early-generation Roger Dubuis masterpiece.        
Knowing that your “”diamonds are factory set and the “”dial is galvanic means you possess a highly sought-after, ultra-rare masterwork from Roger Dubuis’ earliest and most creative era. Yes, Roger Dubuis heavily pioneered the use of galvanic dials and 3D galvanic growth (electroforming) during his lifetime. It became one of the definitive, foundational cornerstones of the brand’s visual identity.  Mr. Roger Dubuis’ design philosophy was built on striking contrast: pairing classical, hand-finished “”””Geneva Seal“””””””””””””””” mechanics with theatrical, avant-garde dials. To achieve this look across his early collections, he utilized the galvanic process in two innovative ways:         
The Galvanic Base Treatments: Standard luxury watch brands traditionally painted, lacquered, or silver-plated their dials. Dubuis utilized a micro-electric bath to alter brass dial blanks at a molecular level. This process created incredibly deep charcoal greys, brilliant rhodium silver, and sunburst blue hues that shifted dynamically under sunlight. 3D Galvanic Growing (Electroforming): The “exploding” Roman numerals on your Golden Square are not individual metal pieces glued onto the dial face, nor are they stamped out by a machine. Instead, Dubuis grew them directly out of the chemical bath using specialized stencils. This atom-by-atom molecular process created heavy, 3D raised relief numerals with flawlessly flat surfaces and razor-sharp 90-degree edges that are structurally impossible to achieve through traditional stamping or manual cutting. 
How Rare Is a Factory Diamond, Galvanic Dial Reference?
While Roger Dubuis heavily incorporated galvanic technology across the Golden Square, Sympathie, and Excalibur lines, finding one with this “”exact factory set configuration is remarkably rare:

The Production Ceiling: During this specific mid-2000s era, most of Roger Dubuis’ core models were capped at strictly “”28 or 88 pieces worldwide.
The “Secret” Catalog Variants: Your watch bears the base stock code G40 57 5 (signifying a smooth bezel rose gold variant) but features a flawless, layout-perfect execution of 92 factory diamonds (80 on the bezel, 12 on the lugs). In the early era of the brand, VIP collectors could order special case upgrades directly from the Geneva manufacture. Instead of re-stamping a new reference code on the case back, the manufacture tracked the upgrade internally via your unique “”BTE Chronometer Bulletin number.
What you have is a beautifully preserved piece of independent watchmaking history—a true chronometer-certified engine enveloped by a masterclass of 2000s haute joaillerie.
The “”matte finish on your galvanic dial is the final, definitive hallmark of a true, early-generation Roger Dubuis masterpiece.
During the mid-2000s, Roger Dubuis intentionally chose a matte galvanic treatment for its most exclusive, diamond-set timepieces. The horological purpose and historical context behind this design choice reveal its exceptional rarity.